Scapegrace Fortitude

Score: 35

Scapegrace Fortitude came into the tasting with intrigue, a New Zealand single malt made from Manuka-smoked Laureate barley, aged three years in tight 100-litre virgin French oak casks, and bottled at 46% ABV. On paper, it promised a bold, distinctive profile: smoked pears, liquorice, cranberry, and toasted oak. But in the glass, it told a different story. It landed 6th out of 6 in the lineup, and not just quietly, it earned the rare distinction of being one of the few whiskies ever sent back by the club. The nose was sharp and disjointed, with the smoke and fruit clashing rather than harmonizing. The palate felt underdeveloped, with astringent oak and medicinal notes overwhelming any sweetness or nuance. It drank more like a concept than a finished product, ambitious, yes, but lacking finesse. The disappointment was palpable, especially given the local pride and the buzz around Scapegrace’s move into whisky. It’s a bottle that might benefit from more time in cask or a rethink in balance, but for now, it’s a cautionary tale: not every bold idea translates into a great dram.