Arran 21 years

One of four club bottles featured in the Champion of Champions 2023 tasting, Arran 21 entered the fray late in the evening, perhaps too late to be fully appreciated with fresh palates. But even in the haze of a long night, it left its mark. Loved, discussed, and quietly admired, it was a dram that deserved more time than it got. The profile was intricate and layered, demanding attention. It opened sweet and light, with notes of barley sugar, vanilla, honey, and milk chocolate. But as it developed, it shifted, bitter and sour notes crept in, drying the finish and adding tension. Fruity elements danced throughout: Seville orange, sour lemon, grapefruit juice, and dried fruits like plums, raisins, apricots, and even cherry-flavoured cough pastilles. Then came the earth: pear drops, forest floor, mushrooms, wet paper, cigar ashes, and iron. Spice followed, pepper, ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, cardamom, coriander, and mint. It was a whisky that unfolded like a novel, each sip revealing a new chapter. Though it didn’t dominate the rankings, Arran 21 was a quiet standout. A whisky of nuance and maturity, brought out late but remembered well. In a lineup of champions, it held its own, not with volume, but with depth.